Water Supply: Potable/Drinking water can come from one of two sources when you buy a Rural Property.

Cistern: A cistern is a holding tank for potable water. Cisterns can be above ground in basements or crawlspaces or underground tanks. Cisterns can be made of fibreglass or concrete. Cisterns vary in capacity normally 2,000 - 3,000 gallons. Water can be delivered or you can haul it yourself from water depots throughout Lake Country. For a list of water depots click here.

It's important to know the size of your cistern.

Drilled Well: Water is supplied from a drilled well. A drilled well consists of a hole bored (a borehole) into the ground, with the upper part or the entire depth of the well being lined with casing. A pump is inserted into the well to supply water. 

In Alberta Water most water wells are registered and details are available on a database. If you have your legal description you can find how your well is constructed. You can find out how deep your well is what the flow and recovery rates were at the time of drilling. This information is available here.

Overtime a well can collapse and the pump can fail. Cost of replacing a pump is approximately $3,000 cost of replacing a well can be upwards of $20,000.

During an inspection you can order a flow test: The well recovery rate is measured in gallons per minute (GPM). Generally, for most residential wells, a good recovery rate ranges between 5GPM and 10GPM. A well recovery rate of 1GPM indicates a low yield well. A well yield stress test can help you calculate your well's recovery rate.

Artesian Well:  An Artesian Well is a water well that doesn't require a pump to bring water to the surface. This occurs when there is enough positive pressure in the aquifer to bring the water to the surface. There are areas in Lake Country where this well exists and is a reliable water supply.

Shallow Well: A shallow well is a hole which has been dug, bored, driven or drilled into the ground for the purpose of extracting water is a well. A well is considered to be shallow if it is less than 50 feet deep. The source of a well is an aquifer. They are less expensive due to lower labor and material costs. Your well pump for this setup is not submersible, which means it must be placed above ground in well housing. Fortunately, this means it is easier to access and service should any maintenance be needed.

Water Quality Tests

There are 2 types of tests for your drinking water supply:

A Bacteria Test: looks for 2 types of harmful bacteria (total coliform and E. coli). This test is collected in the home and is sent to a lab (Dynalife) for testing. This test costs $65. Normally the results are available within 48 hrs. This test may be required by your mortgage provider.

It is recommended that you test your water twice a year

A Chemical and Trace Metals Test looks for common chemicals and trace metals found in water.  This test takes 6 to 8 weeks for your water sample to get tested. Alberta Health Services will mail you the results. This test is helpful if you plan to treat or do filtration of your well water,

Pressure Systems:

The well pump draws the water from the well near your home; the pressure tank stores the water and regulates your home's water pressure. When you shower, wash the dishes, or run the washing machine, that water comes from the pressure tank.

Water pressure is measured in psi, or pounds per square inch, and represents the force at which water enters your home from the water main. Normal psi for a home pipe system is between 30 and 80 psi. While you don't want the psi to be too low, it violates code to be above 80.

Anyone who has a well for their household water supply should be familiar with how they work so they can effectively trouble shoot. 

There are three types of pressure tanks: Air-Over-Water, Diaphragm, and Bladder, each with their own pros and cons.

Air-Over-Water Tank

These tanks use a single tank to hold the water and air charge. They usually have an internal coating to prevent corrosion. The terms “glass lined” or “epoxy coated” refers to the material used to line the tank and prevent corrosion.

The air and water are in a single tank with no separation. They’re not as popular as they were but are still used. The pressurized air pushes down on the water to create the pressure needed to supply your home. While they tend to be larger than other types of tanks, their capacity is similar to smaller tanks. This could cause the pump to cycle on and off more frequently and lead to premature pump wear and failure. They can be prone to getting water-logged due to the air loss trough pinhole becoming corroded.

Diaphragm Pressure Tanks

Diaphragm pressure tanks have two chambers: one for air, and one for water. They’re separated by a rubber diaphragm that’s permanently bonded to the inside of the tank, which rises and falls with the water level. 

As water is pumped into the lower section, the diaphragm pushes up into the air chamber which triggers a switch that shuts off the pump. 

While this is an efficient system, it does have its drawbacks. One is having the diaphragm come loose from the inside of the tank and letting water flow into the upper chamber. If this happens, you’ll need to replace the tank. The other problem is having the diaphragm fold over itself and causing a false reading which can lead to premature pump burn-out and the tank being ruined.

Bladder Pressure Tanks

The third kind of well pressure tank is the Bladder Pressure Tank. These use two separate chambers for air and water. The bladder is basically a large balloon filled with air that expands and contracts, triggering the pump. Since they’re self-contained, they don’t have the issues of a diaphragm or a single chamber tank. Another advantage is that since the water and air are kept separate, air is not absorbed into the water and therefore, there’s no need to have air added. Air bladders also tend to last longer than diaphragms.

They can have problems with water pressure or with short water pump cycles, which are usually because of a problem with the pump controls, with well or pipe leaks, and somewhat less often, a failure of the internal bladder, which may be replaceable. Another problem is having the bladder “get stuck to itself” and remain uninflated. This can cause rapid pump cycling. 

Cost of replacing a pressure system is about $3,000. Your property inspector can tell you what type of pressure system is installed at your lake property.

Filtration Systems:

Treating well water is an effective way to manage issues that may arise from this untreated source of water. Each well depending on the area may have different water characteristics.The most effective way to find out the characteristic's of your water is to get a Chemical and Trace Metals Test completed.

Here are some of the filtration systems you may find in your Lake Property:

Sand Filter: Sand and sediment in well water is often a serious problem for many people using well water and will cause rapid deterioration of fixtures as well as appliances. Sand and sediment may cause piping to plug up with sludge and result in loss of pressure in your home. Fixtures, as well as taps, can become worn out, and home appliances including washing machines wear out ahead of their time. 

Sand filters are normally installed in your water line before your pressure system. Depending on the complexity of the filtration you either need to replace the filter ($75.00) on a regular basis or the system might have a flushing mechanism.

Iron Filter: A couple of ways you'd know if you need an iron filter or not are orange/rust-like staining in your toilets, washing machine and dishwasher. Another is the metallic taste iron has when you're drinking it.

This media is designed to last up to 8-10 years depending on water chemistry and usage. The entire system does not need to be replaced, just the filter media.

This system is complex and will require continual maintenance and upkeep.

Water Softener:  A water softener system for well water is an effective solution that improves the quality of your drinking water and extends the life of plumbing fixtures and appliances. Water softeners work by removing minerals from hard water, such as calcium, magnesium, and other dissolved solids.

A water softener should last 10 to 15 years. If your unit is facing more wear and tear, it could be due to improper maintenance or particularly hard water. If you'd like to extend the lifespan of your water softener, one option is to add a pre-filter.

This system requires monitoring and adding of salt on a regular basis. 

Reverse Osmosis: Many Lake Property residents purchase bottled water for drinking and cooking. Over time this can be a big expense. Reverse Osmosis is a type of multi-stage water filtration method. It can reduce up to 99% of the contaminants in water. Reverse osmosis, or RO, is a water treatment process that forces water through a semi-permeable membrane to remove contaminants and other unwanted substances. 

Reverse Osmosis (RO) Systems vary in capacity. Most home owners put a system in for drinking water and cooking. 

These systems are usually installed under the kitchen sink and have a small tap installed on the counter.

Ongoing maintenance requires you to replace filters on a regular basis. Cost is related to the type and style of filter you purchase. Cost is approximately $100 per year.

Whole Home Filtration Systems: These systems work on the principle of ion exchange, replacing calcium and magnesium ions in the water with sodium ions, effectively softening the water. On average, the installation cost for a salt-based water softener in Canada ranges from $1,000 to $3,000, factoring in professional installation.

Choosing Home Water Filters & Other Water Treatment Systems

- What does the filter remove? Read the label to see if it is NSF-certified. ...

- How much does the system cost? ...

- How much filtered water do you need? ...

- What kind of system do you need, and how does it fit into your home?

The best way to determine if this is something you should consider is to consult with a professional.

Rural Properties have various systems that deal with handling sewage (Solids and Grey Water). In an urban setting your sewage is pumped directly to a waste management station. In Lake Country you will come across a variety of systems that handle sewage.

Septic Tank: This is simply a holding tank for solids and grey water. The capacity of these tanks is normally designed around how many bedrooms and bathrooms your lake property has. Each municipality has regulations around the size of these tanks. The tanks are pumped out on a regular basis by a septic tank servicing company. A list of service providers is available in our Business Directory.

Septic Tank & Field: This system is a combination of a 2 compartment septic tank and a leach or drainage field. These systems greatly reduce the need for septic service pump outs since the system effectively dispenses with the grey water.  

The main section of a leach drain consists of a pipe with holes which is surrounded by gravel. The gravel helps to disperse the effluent and prevent blockages. Once the water from the septic tank has passed through the pipe and the gravel it enters the soil. The water entering the soil is called grey water, which just means "dirty water" with limited solids. This includes laundry water, limited septic fluids, and other wastewater. 

The grey water can enter the leaching system either by gravity (siphon) or by using an effluent pump. 

If you have this system your solid tank should be pumped out every 2 years. You may have to occasionally replace an effluent pump. Replacement costs start at $500.

Septic Tank & Straight Discharge: This system is a combination of a 2 compartment septic tank and a surface discharge for grey water. These systems are normally found on larger acreages. 

If you have this system your solid tank should be pumped out every 2 years. You may have to occasionally replace a discharge pump. Replacement costs start at $500.

Septic Tank & Grey Water System: This system is a combination of a 2 compartment septic tank connected to a low pressure grey water pump system. These systems are found in resorts and summer villages.

If you have this system your solid tank should be pumped out every 2 years. 

Septic System Maintenance Tips:

A septic system should last you from 15 to 40 years. However, how long your septic tank system lasts depends on the material is it made of as well as proper maintenance.

To extend the life of your septic system, here are some maintenance tips: 

- Be careful what goes down your drains and don’t treat your toilet like a trash can! Non-decomposable materials, such as cooking grease, paper towel, and baby wipes, can clog and damage the system.

- Avoid disposing of chemicals, phosphates, and non-biodegradable substances in your septic tank. This can disrupt the bacteria necessary to break down your household waste.

- Reduce your water usage by conserving water in your home to reduce the risk of septic system failure. Try having shorter showers or spreading your washing machine and dishwasher usage throughout the week.

- Be mindful of the appliances you use in your home that rely on water. The more appliances you use, the less efficient your system will be.

- Maintain your drain field by avoiding planting trees and gardens on or around your drain field. The roots can grow into the pipes and cause damage to the plumbing.

- Avoid parking vehicles or building structures on top of your drain field. This will cause the soil to compact and prevent the drain field from working properly.

- Keep extraneous water from accessing the drain field by ensuring gutters and sump pumps empty far away from this area.

To increase the lifespan of your septic tank system, you should have it pumped by a professional every two years to avoid scum and sludge levels from getting too high and causing a blockage.

Forced Air Systems: (Furnaces): A forced air system uses a duct and vent configuration to send air into spaces throughout your home, and the term can sometimes reference an included furnace or heat pump that forces heated air through those ducts. The forced air originates from inside your home. Some advantages of forced-air systems are that they're generally reliable, energy-efficient, and last for decades. Some disadvantages are that they require regular cleaning and maintenance, and they're more expensive up-front than other types of heating systems. Forced air systems also may have a humidifier and air conditioning.

These heat source for these systems is natural gas or propane. Another heat source could be a heat exchanger that would be from a boiler system or a Geo Thermal system.

Typical maintenance includes regular filter changes (4 times/yr), belts, and flame sensors. In modern furnaces the control board is also a failure point.

Air duct cleaning is an often overlooked but essential aspect of home maintenance. While the general recommendation is to clean your air ducts every three to five years, this frequency can vary depending on factors such as allergy sufferers in the house, pet ownership, and recent home renovations. 

Boiler Systems: Boilers are special-purpose water heaters. While furnaces carry heat in warm air, boiler systems distribute the heat in hot water, which gives up heat as it passes through radiators or other devices in rooms throughout the house. The cooler water then returns to the boiler to be reheated. Hot water systems are often called hydronic systems. Residential boilers generally use natural gas or propane heating.

Instead of a fan and duct system, a boiler uses a pump to circulate hot water through pipes to radiators. Some hot water systems circulate water through plastic tubing in the floor, a system called radiant floor heating.

Space Heaters: In Lake Country gas-fired direct heating space heaters are popular. These are normally found  in garages and various out buildings. This includes ceiling or wall-mounted, free-standing, or floor furnaces, all characterized by their lack of ductwork and relatively small heat output. Because they lack ducts, they are most useful for warming a single room. If heating several rooms is required, either the doors between rooms must be left open or another heating method is necessary.  The models can be fired with natural gas or propane.

Lake Country properties often have a Fireplace or Wood Burning Stove in the living room or in an outbuilding.

Wood-Burning Stoves: 

Wood heating can make a great deal of sense in rural areas if you enjoy stacking wood and stoking the stove or furnace. Wood prices are generally lower than gas, oil, or electricity. If you cut your own wood, the savings can be large. 

Pellet Stoves:

Pellet stoves offer a number of advantages over wood stoves. They are less polluting than wood stoves and offer users greater convenience, temperature control, and indoor air quality.

Fireplaces:

Wood fireplaces are basically part of a room’s décor, providing a warm glow but typically are not an effective heat source. With customary installations that rely on air drawn from the room into the fireplace for combustion and dilution, the fireplace will generally lose more heat than it provides, because so much warm air is drawn through the unit and must be replaced by cold outside air. On the other hand, if the fireplace is provided with a tight-sealing glass door, a source of outside air, and a good chimney damper, it can provide useful heat.

Many Fireplaces have been retrofitted to a natural gas insert.

Regardless of what type of wood burning device you have they need to be WETT certified. A WETT inspection allows you to ensure that all of your wood-burning appliances are installed safely and properly, and do not pose a risk to you, your family, or your home. 

You will be required to disclose a wood burning device to your insurance company.

What kind of wood should I burn?

Birch: Birch is an excellent firewood to have on hand, and it’s considered a hardwood. Even if it hasn’t been seasoned, you’ll still be able to burn it. You just won’t get the best results. Birch firewood burns quickly and performs best when mixed with slow-burning woods such as oak. Birch is a popular choice because of its cost, it gives off plenty of heat, and it is easy to find. The only downside is because it burns fast, you’ll go through it faster.

Tamarack: Tamarack, sometimes referred to as larch, is technically considered a softwood. However, it is harder than other trees in the softwood family. This type of firewood is known for its pleasant aroma while burning and gives the classic fire feel with popping, crackling, and smoke. This type of wood isn’t the best for cooking, as you’ll likely get a piney or evergreen flavour. Tamarack is best for heat and provides a long hot burn.

Pine: Pine is often used as a fire starter as it burns quickly, but if you want your fire to last, you’ll likely want to switch over to a hardwood once you have things going. Pine doesn’t emit the same kind of heat a hardwood fire does, and it can also produce sparking due to the sap pockets exploding from the heat. Because of this, pine is best for outdoor use.

Electricity: Most service providers can be contacted for electricity.

Natural Gas: There are two natural gas Coop's in Lake Country.

 If your property is in Lac Ste Anne County your natural gas supplier is Ste Anne Natural Gas (SANG). For more information click here.

If your property is in Parkland County gas supplier is West Parkland Gas Co-op. For more information click here. 

Propane: Propane tanks can be purchased or rented from various vendors. 

Water & Septic Services: Vendors are available to haul water and remove sewage. Check out a vendor list in our Business Directory.

Internet: Service in the area is improving. Clients use Telsu, Xplornet and Starlink 

Garbage: If your municipality does not have a collection service you have to transport your waste to a transfer station.

Lac Ste Anne County Transfer Station information can be found here.

Parkland Country Transfer Station information can be found here.

Septic Tank and Cistern Alarms:

It's a smart practice to install a Septic Tank and Cistern Alarms for peace of mind. These systems have a mechanism in your tank and a buzzer/light/alarm box installed in your mechanical room. These alarms ideally are set to give you sometime to either empty or fill your systems before you run out of water or overfill your septic tank. Over time with regular use you will be able to get a good sense of how long you can go between filling and emptying these systems with normal use. 

If your septic tank has reached capacity you will notice that you may have trouble flushing your toilet, or it's constantly backing up or your pipes make a gurgling sound or drain very slowly.

A list of Septic Services and Water Providers is available in our Business Directory.

Security Systems:

It's a smart practise to install a Security System at your Lake Property. The immediate benefit is that it will have a positive impact on your home insurance package. 

Rural Internet has made remote management of these systems very convenient. You can install a basic system but if you are a seasonal resident you may wish to add additional systems like motion camera's with sound, low temperature alerts for heat, flood alarm for sump pump failure or water, alarms on garage doors, glass break alarm along with a myriad of other monitoring tools. 

Contact any Security Company Service Provider for rates, products and pricing.

When you buy property in Lake Country you may need to pay some attention to the type of foundation your lake home is sitting on. If you are in an urban setting your home's foundation is probably concrete and is sitting on a basement.

When you are in Lake Country there is a good chance your home is sitting on a Foundation or crawl space rather than a basement. There is no Foundation that is better or worse than others but its good to know what your home is sitting on.

Footings:  The footing is what's actually in contact with the ground, while the foundation is the structure that transfers the load to the earth.  Footings should extend to a minimum depth of 12 inches below previously undisturbed soil. Footings also must extend at least 12 inches below the frost line (the depth to which the ground freezes in winter) or must be frost-protected.

Crawl Spaces: A crawl space is often built when building a basement would be impractical. A crawl space can also substitute for a concrete slab foundation that would hinder building inspections. The crawl space's functions include providing access to repair plumbing, electrical wiring, and heating and cooling systems without the need for excavation. Building insulation can also be installed in a crawl space. The crawl space can provide a protective buffer between the damp ground and the wooden parts of a home and, with adequate sealing, help with radon mitigation. Crawl spaces are also sometimes used for storage of items such as canned goods that are not particularly susceptible to destruction by mildew or unstable temperatures.

Foundations:

Here are some of the more common styles and applications in Lake Country.

Timber-beam: If you purchase a small bungalow style cabin built prior to 1980 there is a better than average chance that this home is sitting on a preserved wood beam foundation. These homes may have a small crawl space area that houses a furnace, hot water tank, and pressure system. These homes may need to levelled occasionally and the timbers themselves have to be monitored for rot and decay. 

Preserved Wood: The design of a Permanent Wood Foundation/Crawlspace allows for batt insulation to be installed inside the stud cavities as well as the option for rigid insulation to be installed to the exterior of the foundation. Wood is also naturally a better insulator than most concrete mixes generally used for home foundations. Combining the additional insulation with wood’s natural thermal properties, you can expect energy savings which helps to reduce utility bills. Preserved wood foundations sit on concrete footings and are engineered for the particular project. Preserved wood foundations can out last concrete when they are properly engineered.

In Lake Country you will find preserved wood crawl spaces and the occasional basement.

Screw Piles: Screw piles typically last around 75 years, although their lifespan depends on the type of pile and soil conditions. In fact, they often become stronger over time due to thixotropy, which means they become less viscous when subjected to stress. Screw piles have a number of benefits over conventional concrete piles in addition to their resilience to freeze-thaw cycles, such as no requirement for excavation, quicker installation, less environmental effect, and simpler removal or repositioning if necessary. The length of the Screw Pile is determined from the depth to the target layer in ground, or onto rock. In practice Screw Pile lengths in ground can be as little as 1m , and as long as 18m in ground, even longer, but most common depths range between 3 ~9m in ground. Screw piles are installed to a preset torque specification.

Lake properties that have screw pile foundations are normally bungalow style homes that sit approximately 2 feet above grade and have insulated skirting.  Screw piles can also be used as footings.

Concrete: Concrete can be used in 2 places. It can be the footing that a wood, timber-beam structure or cinderblock foundation rests on or it can be the foundation product itself. 

In Lake Country concrete foundations are found in lake homes built since 1980 and are either full basements or crawlspaces. 

There are 3 types of Concrete Foundations:

T-Shaped: A traditional foundation method to support a structure in an area where the ground freezes. A footing is placed below the frost line and then the walls are added on top. The footing is wider than the wall, providing extra support at the base of the foundation. A T-shaped foundation is placed and allowed to cure; second, the walls are constructed; and finally, the slab is poured between the walls.

In summary, T-shaped foundations are used in areas where the ground freezes

- First, the footing is placed.

- Second, the walls are constructed and poured.

- Lastly, the slab is placed.

Slab-on-grade foundation: As the name suggests, a slab is a single layer of concrete, several inches thick. The slab is poured thicker at the edges, to form an integral footing; reinforcing rods strengthen the thickened edge. The slab normally rests on a bed of crushed gravel to improve drainage. Casting a wire mesh in the concrete reduces the chance of cracking. A slab on grade is suitable in areas where the ground doesn't freeze, but it can also be adapted with insulation to prevent it from being affected by the frost heaves. (see below)

In summary: Slab on grade used in areas where ground does not freeze, the edges of the slab-on-grade are thicker than the interior of the slab and the slab-on-grade is monolithic (poured all at one time).

Frost Protected Slab-on-grade: This method only works with a heated structure. It relies on the use of two sheets of rigid, polystyrene insulation-one on the outside of the foundation wall and the other laid flat on a bed of gravel at the base of the wall-to prevent freezing, which is a problem with slab-on grade foundations in areas with frost. The insulation holds heat from the structure in the ground under the footings and prevents heat loss from the edge of the slab. This heat keeps the ground temperature around the footings above freezing.

In summary:

- Only works with a heated structure. 

- Has the benefits of a the slab-on-grade method (concrete poured monolithically) in areas subject to frost. 

- Concrete is poured in one operation, versus 3 pours required for T-shaped foundations.

Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF):  Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs) are a wall building material that are an alternative to traditional wood-frame housing. Instead of framing the walls with studs, walls are formed using styrofoam blocks.  ICF wall systems consist of foam boards made from expanded polystyrene and integral hinged plastic webs that hold both sides of the boards together.  The building material is light, simple, and easy to work with.  Forms have male/female interlocking surfaces that simply snap together like Lego.  Once assembled, concrete is poured into the form.  Because the foundation forms remain in place after the concrete is poured, they help insulate the home.

Concrete/Cinderblock: What is a concrete block foundation? Concrete block foundations, or Cinder Masonry Units (CMUs), are made from stacked cinder blocks. Using the CMU method, the footings are coated with mortar—a mixture of sand, water, and fillers to bind masonry—then cinder blocks are layered evenly on top.

Concrete/cinder blocks can cause seepage damage in areas with high water tables. Concrete blocks are strong but porous and allow water to penetrate. Water is persistent and will seek the path of least resistance. It can eventually make its way through walls and cause damage.

Lake Country properties are a haven for out buildings! Outbuildings by definition are any structures on a property that are not part of the main house. What is it about outbuildings in Lake Country? What are they for? Why are there so many? and What impact if any do they have on my property, taxes, and value?

Outbuildings can be as simple as a small storage shed to a quadruple garage with living quarters or anything in between.

What is it about Out Building's in Lake Country?

Well the short story is that lake property owners accumulate a lot of stuff over time. Depending on your lifestyle choice you may own a boat, a Seadoo or 2, a fishing boat, kayaks,  canoes, a quad or 2, a snowmobile or 2 just to name some extra vehicles you might have. You may have one, several or all of these items and in some cases may  even have more than one! You then have all the related paraphernalia related to ownership of said items, skis, wakeboards, lifejackets, fishing rods, tackle boxes, helmets, wetsuits, snowsuits, boots, skis, snowshoes to mention a few.

Then you have the outdoor living component to consider. Do you have a large deck for entertaining? Do you have a fire-pit area? These spaces occupy lawn furniture, loungers, dining tables, Adirondack chairs, fire tables, barbecues, smokers, a beverage fridge, along with outdoor games. You need a place to store firewood!

What about yard maintenance; lawn tractors, lawn maintenance equipment, snow removal equipment, gardening tools, a chainsaw, a wood splitter, tools and gasoline.

What about extra accommodation? A bunkie is a great way to add extra sleeping space to your lake property. These buildings are insulated and usually have some type of heat source.

This doesn't take into account the dock sections and boat lifts you may own along with that Ice Fishing Shack!

What are they all for?

Storage is a major concern over time when you own lake property. You build a shed, a lean to, perhaps even a second garage. You may purchase a tarp shed. Many of these buildings are simply stick framed with no insulation and a wooden floor perhaps even only having a dirt or gravel floor.

Accommodation buildings are normally built to a higher standard with insulation, flooring, and some type of interior finishes.

Why are there so many?

This is usually based on accumulation of items over time. 

What impact if any do they have on my property, taxes, and value?

Out Buildings need to be managed just like your main home. Over time they can become unsightly if they are not maintained. This is something to keep in mind if you are buying or selling.

Rural Development Permits establish the minimum size of a building you can put up prior to have to apply for a building permit the threshold is around 100 sq ft. Check your local municipal regulations prior to building. 

If the outbuilding is larger than that normally the seller will have applied for a building permit and it will be on an RPR and by extension be part of the property assessment process for taxation.

A well maintained and functional outbuilding certainly adds to the overall value of a property. 

The Rural Property Schedule is a vital piece of the picture when you purchase rural land in Lake Country. Rural land is the term used in real estate to describe a property that is not in a municipality where services are simply part of the purchase. When examining rural property purchases you need to understand the various utilities and how to access your new property.

The Rural Property Schedule provides you with these details.

Here is an explanation of the various considerations that come into play when buying a rural property.

- Utilities, connections & equipment (i.e., charges for electrical service, water, roads and natural gas or other fuel service) are fully paid for and are not amortized. 

- Utility contracts for utility service providers are to be assumed by the Buyer.  

If the answer to any of these questions is YES then you need to understand the costs you will be assuming with the purchase.

Other areas of consideration are what might be registered on title that you will be inheriting. Things like 

- Restrictive Covenants, 

- Easements, 

- Utility Right of Ways, 

- Surface Contracts are all part of ongoing ownership of rural land.

If you are buying Vacant Land how far away are the services you may wish to have like power and natural gas. Are they at the property line, or are they further away?

Is their cellular or broadband coverage? This is becoming much less of an issue in Lake Country but it certainly is something you need to look into.

Is there a Water Well? Is it shared? 

What type Heating? Propane? Natural Gas? Electric?

Whats the Septic Service? Holding Tank? If so whats the capacity? Tank and Field? Tank and straight discharge? Municipal System?

What is the Water Supply? Drilled Well? Shared Well? Cistern?If so whats the capacity? Municipal System?

These all factor into your final decision when you purchase a property in Lake Country